NSOW Direction April 2019

Decided that:

a. I actually really enjoy watches - surprise.....

b. I really enjoy all this mucking around with vlogs/blogs/photos etc - yay........

c. Im slowly getting better and I want to see wher ethis goes, so

I've taken stock and I'm thinking hard about what I'll do withg NSOW, what Im thinking is that I want to leverage off the things I'd be doing naturally, that is forming and voicing opinions and taking photos. If possible it would be nice to make a little coin along the way to feed the photography and watch buying fired.

So what does this mean?

A lot of change, consolidation and (OMG) a dash of discipline.

First figure out my platforms, I'm thinking:

Youtube - vlog
Instagram - photos and engagement
Blogger - chatting, ideas, notes etc.
Redbubble - art and merch sales
Alamy - stock sales

None of these are properly set up and I've got work to do.  So lets go.

NSOW 10-19. DO NOT BUY A SEIKO SKX

These are my notes from a recent youtube video I've done.   Please remember these are just notes so a little rough you really should go check out the VLOG.

The vlog is here.

Also - please note that if there are any links in the text below I probably used them doing some research.  I dont rebuild them for these posts, if they are broken they should still work if you cut and paste them into yout browser.

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DONT BUY AN SKX:  (UNLESS YOU WANT TO)


PICTURE THIS ITS THE MID 90’S

NETSCAPE NAVIGATOR 94

COMMERCIAL USE RESTRICTIONS LIFTED 95 AND AOL OFFERING EASY CONNECTION TO INTERNET AT HOME

YAHOO 95

BULLETIN BOARDS HAD BEEN AROUND FOR A WHILE BUT IT WAS NOW THE ERA OF THE FORUMS AND WATCH GEEKS ACROSS THE GLOBE COULD GEEK OUT TOGETHER.

AMAZON JULY 94

EBAY SEP 95

THEN IN 1996 THE SKX WAS RELEASED.

BUT
ALIBABA STARTS IN 1999
KICKSTARTER 2009
INSTAGRAM 2010

FIRST MICROBRANDS HITTING THE STREETS AROUND 2010 AND A WHOLE NEW INDUSTRIAL BASE HAS BEEN ENGAGED.

BUT ITS 2018 AND WE HAVE TO ASK CAN THE SKX BE JUSTIFIED 22 YEARS ON.

IN A WORD - NO

DESIGN
MOVEMENT
7S26. NO HACKING/HANDWINDING. NOTE - PRETTY MUCH EVERY MICROBRAND OFFERS MORE.
CASE
OK - THIS IS MY OPINION, YOUR MILEAGE MAY DIFFER BUT TO ME ITS A LUMPEN BLOB THAT LOOKS LIKE THE TOOLING HAS WORN OUT AND CANT PRODUCE CLEAN CURVES OR CRISP LINES ANYMORE.

EXECUTION

RANGES FROM ANNOYINGLY BAD TO EGREGIOUS

ANNOYING 
SLOPPY BEZEL WITH LOTS OF PLAY
SIMPLE ALL OVER POLISH
PAINFUL
POOR MOVEMENT REGULATION
THINGS LIKE NON-ALIGNED CHAPTER RINGS
EGREGIOUS:
 ACCESORIES

UBIQUITY.
.
INSANELY COMMON/A CLICHE/HARD TO SAY IT EXPRESSES YOU

ALTERNATIVES:

LITERALLY HUNDREDS OF OPTIONS - DIVIDE INTO THREE BROAD GROUPS

MAINSTREAM JAPANESE:
SEIKO. TURTLE/SAMURAI: COMES WITH

MICROBRAND
DAN HENRY 1970: 270USD
NH35/SAPPHIRE/MORE COMPLEX CASE/DIAL
RICHARD LEGRAND ODYSSEA II: 260-300USD
NH35/SAPPHIRE DIAL-BEZEL/SUNBURST CERAMIC DIAL
PHOIBOS WAVE MASTER: 219USD
NH38/SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL/COMPLEX DIALS AND CASES


LEFT FIELD
VOSTOK.  50USD

DEEP BLUE NATO 300.
NH35/SAPPHIRE/300M/BLACK PVD?/QUALITY


NOW TWO REASON YOU MIGHT STILL WANT TO BUY THE SKX:

MODDING
COLLECTING.

TAKEAWAY
UNLESS YOU WANT TO COMPLETE A COLLECTION OR WANT TO MOD A WATCH TO MAKE IT YOURS I CANT RECOMMEND THE SKX
IT WAS A GREAT WATCH AND GREAT VALUE 30 YEARS AGO, MAYBE STILL 10 YEARS AGO, BUT IN 2018 IT REALLY IS OUT OF ITS DEPTH AND TAKE AWAY THE ROMANCE ITS SIMPLY NOT COMPETITIVE
THERE ARE BETTER OPTIONS
JAPANESE MAINSTREAM
MICROBRANDS
EVEN SKX REPLICA/VOSTOK

NSOW 9-19 NOTES. ALPINA SEASTRONG DIVER 300

Please be aware these are just my notes for a VLOG, as such they will be a little sparse.  Please check out the VLOG 

ALPINA SEASTRONG DIVER 300
QUICK REVIEW

ALPINA PRESS RELEASE: https://alpinawatches.com/the-alpina-seastrong-diver-300-automatic/

----------------------------------------PTC--------------------------------------

IDENTITY
● ALPINA SEASTRONG DIVER.  REF AL-525G4TS6
● DIVE AND DAILY WEAR/ONE WATCH - REALLY A DIVE INSPIRED DTW
○ “THE DESIGN PRIVILEGES OPTIMAL DIVE TIME READABILITY AND STANDS OUT THROUGH ITS ESSENTIAL AND FUNCTIONAL BEAUTY, WHICH TRANSFORMS THIS TIMEPIECE IN A BEAUTIFUL MASCULINE OBJECT ALSO OUTSIDE THE WATER.”
● ENTRY LEVEL SWISS

----------------------------------LB-------------------------------------

DESIGN
● DIVER.  A CORE AIM AND GENERALLY THERE BUT SOME COMPROMISES.
○ WATER RESISTANCE - 300M PLENTY
○ UNIDIRECTIONAL BEZEL - GOT ONE
○ LEGIBILITY - SEE MINUTES ELAPSED AT A GLANCE
■ BIG FLAT DIAL AND CRYSTAL,
■ HIGH CONTRAST MARKERS - WHITE, NO FAUX PATINA
■ FURTHER EMPHASISED WITH POLISHED BOUNDARIES AND 3D EFFECT OF APPLIED MARKERS.
■ LONG MINUTE HAND
● NO MINUTE MARKERS BETWEEN 5’S, DIAL OR BEZEL - A BIT VAGUE
○ OVERALL STURDY BUILD
■ PRETTY TOUGH. BANG ON. 316L STEEL CONSTRUCTION, SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL, SCREW DOWN CASE BACK AND CROWN GIVING 300M WATER RESISTANCE.
● CROWN GUARD ARE THERE BUT MINIMAL FOR SYMMETRY

● EVERYDAY: ALMOST PERFECT - ONLY QUESTION - TOO BIG?
■ WEARABILITY: 44MM/49MM/13MM. ROUND DIAL/BEZEL MOUNTED OVER A SQUARED OFF CUSHION MID-CASE GIVING THE WATCH “SHOULDERS” PLUS FURTHER MINIMAL SHOULDER PADS.  ALTOGETHER A VERY IMPOSING LOOK
● BUT (LIKE MANY ALPINAS) SURPRISINGLY WEARABLE.
○ THIN (FOR A DIVER - SUB SAME THICKNESS) -
○ LOW SET AND
○ AGGRESSIVE ANGLED LUGS HELP
● HOWEVER IN THE END IT’S STILL A 44MM AND MIGHT NOT FIT.

■ A LITTLE CLASS.
● DEEP PERFECTLY MATT DIAL -
● SIMPLE NO NONSENSE INDICES  -
● EXCELLENT DATE INTEGRATION HIDES WHEN YOU DON'T WANT TO POPS WHEN YOU DO -
● COHERENT (SHAPES AND COLORS  WORK TOGETHER AND SYMMETRY) AND PROPORTIONATE CASE - SUBTLE CASE SHAPING AND FINISHING.
● WISE DECISION TO GO WITH ALUMINIUM BEVEL INSERT - DULL FINISH MAINTAINS OVERALL AESTHETIC OF DIAL
○ LESS PRINT ON DIAL WOULD BE GOOD THOUGH TO DOUBLE DOWN ON MINIMALIST AESTHETIC

■ A LITTLE FLARE.
● ALL GOOD.
○ SILVERING OF NUMERALS AND INDICES
○ HINTS OF COLOUR IN ALPINA INSIGNIA
○ SMALL SHOULDER PADS TO AVOID SLAB SIDES
○ DELICATE CHAMFERS
○ MIX OF POLISHED AND SATIN FINISH
○ BLACK INSERT IN CROWN.
● DISPLAY CASEBACK -
○ PLUS A BIT OF EFFORT GONE INTO DECORATING THE WORKMANLIKE MOVEMENT IN THE ENGINE BAY.

EXECUTION

● MOVEMENT: AL525/SW 200 PERFECT CHOICE - SOLID/ACCURATE/SERVICEABLE
● BAND: COMES WITH A REALLY NICE SOFT RUBBER BAND
○ PERFECTLY GOOD BUT I PREFER NATOS.
● BUILD: CANT FAULT IT.
○ EVERYTHING CLEAN/NEAT/ALIGNED.
○ BEZEL ACTION LOVELY - SMOOTH BUT POSITIVE CLICK - NO PLAY
○ CROWN SCREW FEELS REALLY SMOOTH - BETTER THAN PILOT
■ BEZEL NOT OVERLY GRIPPY - SACRIFICED FOR LOOKS?
■ WOULD HAVE LOVED DRILLED LUGS
● LUME - OVERALL PRETTY GOOD.

---------------------VOICE OVER-----------------------------

MARKETPLACE
● PRICE:
○ MSRP:   1400USD
○ LIKELY:  700USD
● ALTERNATIVES: LOTS - EVEN IF WE STICK TO SWISS
○ OBVIOUS:
■ ORIS AQUIS (1700/1200):
○ BETTER NAME, MORE DIVE FOCUSED, BUT INTEGRATED BAND/TWICE THE PRICE
○ NOT SO OBVIOUS:
■ HAMILTON KHAKI FROGMAN/CERTINA DS ACTION/LONGINES HYDROCONQUEST - ALL MORE DIVE/FUSSIER/LESS EVERYDAY
■ MIDO OCEAN STAR - VERY SIMILAR/BIT SMALLER/TITANIUM

--------------------------PTC------------------------------------------------------------

TAKE AWAY

● ALPINA WERE REBORN AROUND 2002 WHEN TAKEN OVER BY FREDERIQUE CONSTANT AND THE FIRST YEARS WERE ROCKY - PROBLEM COULD BE SEEN IN THE NAME.  TRYING TOO HARD.
● FOR ME - BIG GUY 19CM WRIST - THE ALPINA IS A BRILLIANT BLEND OF ITS TWO ROLES:
○ CLEARLY A DIVE WATCH BUT WITH LOTS OF LITTLE TWEEKS TO SEPARATE IT OUT OF THE CROWD AND GIVE IT REAL EVERYDAY ONE WATCH VERSATILITY.
○ ALPINA HAS FOUND A REALLY COOL TAKE ON THE DTW - THIS ONE DIVE INSPIRED (STARTIMER PILOT INSPIRED)
○ WELL EXECUTED AND LIKELY TO LAST A LIFETIME AND BE EASY TO SERVICE OVER THE JOURNEY.
■ ONLY REAL CONCERN IS SIZE.
■ HAVE TO COMMIT TO FORM OVER FUNCTION FOR DESIGN
● COMPETITORS: STACKS UP REALLY WELL - COMPETITIVE ON DESIGN/EXECUTION/PRICE/ WITH EVERYTHING ELSE IN THIS SEGMENT. SERIOUS VALUE PROP.
● HIGHLY RECOMMEND IF YOU NEED A REALLY MODERN DIVE INSPIRED DTW BUT ONE THAT IS STILL ACTUALLY A FULLY CAPABLE 300M DIVER.

NSOW 8-19 Watches and the West

These are my notes from a recent youtube video I've done looking at the destination of swiss watch exports and what that says about the importance (or not) of the countries broadly considered as "the west" in the watch industry.  Please remember these are just notes so a little rough.

The vlog is at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxQQlGlEDpc

Also - it looks like the links in my notes broke but they should still work if you cut and paste them into yout browser.

YOU KNOW HOW THERE’S ALWAYS THAT THING YOU KNOW YOU SHOULDNT DO BUT IT JUST SEEMS SO RIGHT? THAT LAST PIECE OF PIZZA, THAT LAST BEER, OR IN MY CASE RECENTLY, THAT COMMENT ON THE INTERNET THAT IS SO LACKING IN SELF AWARENESS IT JUST BEGS FOR A REPLY.

WELL THAT REPLY LEAD TO AN EXCHANGE THAT WAS LIKE THAT LAST BEER  YOU SHOULDNT HAVE AND THAT SEES YOU TAKING PORCELIN BUS FOR A SPIN.   I BAILED AND BLOCKED ASAP BUT LIKE - WOW!!!!.

SO WHAT WAS SO TASTY I HAD TO HAVE A BITE?

OVER THE PAST YEAR A QUESTION HAS BEEN RATTLING AROUND IN MY HEAD AND THIS COMMENT BROUGHT THAT QUESTION INTO FOCUS.  THAT QUESTION IS?

JUST HOW IMPORTANT ARE WE WESTERN COLLECTORS IN THE GLOBAL WATCH COMMUNITY, ESPECIALLY THE SWISS WATCH MAKERS.

AND I SUPPOSE STEMMING FROM THAT HOW REPRESENTATIVE ARE WE OF WHAT THE WATCH MAKERS ARE SELLING AND WHEN WE TALK ABOUT COMPANIES CATALOGS AND DIRECTIONS ARE WE TALKING OUT OUR ARSES?

LETS START AT THE TOP WITH LOOK AT GLOBAL DESTINATIONS FOR SWISS WATCHES BY REGION GO TO THE FH SITE:

https://www.fhs.swiss/pdf/regions_170112_a.pdf

ASIA: 12 MILL UNITS: 10  BCHF 50% - +5%
EUROPE: 8.6 MILL UNITS:6.7 BCHF 34% - +2.6%
AMERICA: 3.4 MILL UNITS: 2.8 BCHF 14% - -2.7% (GROWTH IN SOUTH)

OK - SO WE ARE IMPORTANT BUT:
NOT THE BIGGEST MARKET SEGMENT
GOING BACKWARDS
SOUTH AMERICA PLACE TO WATCH!

NOW FROM HERE THE DATA COULD TAKE US IN ALL SORTS OF INTERESTING DIRECTIONS BUT I WANT TO KEEP THIS MANAGEABLE.

LOOKING AT THE COUNTRY TABLES (AND ASSUMING MOST HK WATCHES GO TO CHINA)

https://www.fhs.swiss/pdf/mt3_170112_a.pdf

CHINA + HK = 4.6 BCHF.  MORE THAN 2X USA

SO A COUPLE OF QUICK GOOGLE SEARCHS AND LETS SEE WHAT SWISS BRANDS ARE BIG IN CHINA.

FIRST I CAME ACROSS THIS ARTICLE FROM THE SOUTH CHINA SEA MORNING POST:

https://www.scmp.com/magazines/style/watches/article/2135109/5-luxury-swiss-watch-brands-driving-sales-recovery-china

THE POST IDENTIFIES THE FIVE BRANDS IT CONSIDERS IS DRIVING SWISS GROWTH IN CHINA:
THE FIRST IS LONGINES
THEN CAME A COUPLE OF PREDICTABLE CHOICES, PATEK AND OMEGA BUT THEN:
PIAGET? BEFORE ROLEX???? EVEN IN THE SAME LIST AS ROLEX? FOR US HERE ON YOUTUBE THEY ARE AN IRRELEVANCE.

OK - MAYBE THAT’S A QUIRK, A MEDIA MAGAZINE PUFF PIECE BOUGHT BY THE BRAND THAT MISREPRESENTS WHAT’S ACTUALLY HAPPENING.

ANOTHER ARTICLE - THIS ONE FROM BARRONS:

https://www.barrons.com/articles/cartier-watches-are-top-choice-for-chinas-wealthy-1490232676

THIS ONE ISN'T LOOKING AT SALES SO MUCH AS CONSUMER RECOGNITION AND SENTIMENT. THEIR FINDING ARE A LITTLE DIFFERENT BUT BROADLY IN LINE.  THIS ONE FOUND CARTIER ON TOP AS THE BRAND MOST LIKELY TO BE PURCHASED WITH LONGINES IN SECOND. OMEGA AND ROLEX SLIPPING TO 3 AND 4 OVER PRICING CONCERNS. ALSO IWC AND BULGARI - BULGARI - ARE FAST ON THE RISE.

OK - SO WHAT IS THAT TELLING US:

THE STAPLES OF THE SWISS (OMEGA/PATEK/CARTIER/OMEGA) ARE CERTAINLY ALSO BIG IN CHINA BUT...
BRANDS THAT ARE PERIPHERAL IN THE WEST LIKE PIAGET AND BULGARI ARE BIG AND GROWING, HOWEVER .
I THINK THE MAIN TAKEAWAY IS THAT LONGINES - A KIND OF AFTERTHOUGHT MALL STORE BRAND IN THE WEST - IS THE DOMINANT SWISS BRAND IN CHINA.

CERTAINLY DIFFERENT TO HERE IN THE WEST BUT NOT SURE WHAT THAT REALLY TELLS US - SO NOW HOW ABOUT A SEARCH ON LONGINES AND THEIR POSITION IN CHINA AND WHAT DO YOU KNOW:

https://www.europastar.com/time-business/1004089866-longines-an-empire-in-china.html

LONGINES, AN EMPIRE IN CHINA:  CASE STUDY

STARTS WITH THE SECTION:

HANG ON - BACK UP THE BUS. LONGINES - THE BRAND WITH THE BLOATED INVENTORY OF TRASH WITH A FEW INTERESTING HERITAGE PIECES IS THE FOURTH LARGEST WATCH BRAND IN THE WORLD!?!?

GOT TO CHECK THIS. HOW? OK LETS LOOK AND SEE IF THE SWATCH GROUP REPORTS TELL US MUCH…..

https://www.swatchgroup.com/en/services/archive/2018/swatch-group-key-figures-2017

NOT A LOT OF DETAIL BUT TWO SNIPPETS:

2017 REVENUES FOR THE GROUP WERE AROUND 7.9 B CHF
LONGINES ON TRACK FOR 2 B CHF IN MEDIUM TERM

OK - WHAT IS “MEDIUM TERM” ETC BUT STILL - GUESSING LONGINES CLOSE TO 25% OF ENTIRE SWATCH SALES. AND WHILE HARDLY A SLAM DUNK IT LENDS SOME CREDENCE TO THE CLAIM OF 4TH BIGGEST BRAND.

SO BACK TO THE LONGINES CASE STUDY

NOW - LOTS OF TALK ABOUT CONSERVATIVE/CLASSIC ETC BUT NO REAL IDEA OF WHAT THAT MEANS UNTIL THIS:

--------------------------------------PTI--------------------------------------------------------------------------



SO LETS UNPACK THAT FOR A SECOND:
90% OF SALES ARE MECHANICAL
50% OF LONGINES SALES IN CHINA ARE WOMENS WATCHES
60% OF SALES ARE SOLD AS “PAIRS”

LOOKING AT LONGINES CATALOG THAT REALLY POINT US TOWARDS THE ELEGANCE, MASTER AND RECORD COLLECTIONS. IN ALL THESE WATCHES LONGINES MAKE “PAIRS” OF MENS AND LADIES WATCHES WITH SOME AROUND 25MM AND OTHERS 38MM .  THESE ARENT THE SUPER CHEAP QUARTZ STUFF BUT THEY ARE WATCHES NONE OF THESE GET ANY REAL COVERAGE IN THE WESTERN MEDIA

FREDERICO ON LONGINES - I LOVE FREDERICO - ONE OF MY VERY FAVORITE YOUTUBERS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54BkTpVoP3Y

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oH648j1r96Y


CUTTING COSTS. HERITAGE LINE OK BUT OTHERWISE  TOO MANY SKUS. UNSURE WHERE THE DIRECTION IS.  UNCERTAINTY OF AUDIENCE.

BUT IS THAT TRUE?
-----------------------------------------------------PTC------------------------------------------------------------

ITS CLEAR TO ME WHY FREDERICO IS CONFUSED - HE, AND BY EXTENSION THE REST OF US - ARENT THE AUDIENCE.  WE CANT FIGURE OUT WHY LONGINES IS DOING THIS TO US AND IT NEVER OCCURS TO US THAT LONGINES IS BARELY THINKING ABOUT US AT ALL.

FOR ALL I KNOW THERE’S SOME ASIAN LANGUAGE FREDERICO OUT THERE COMPLAINING THAT IF ONLY LONGINES WOULD STOP CLOGGING UP THEIR INVENTORY WITH STUFF LIKE THE HERITAGE DIVER THEY COULD REALLY MOVE FORWARD.

SO - LETS WRAP THIS UP.  HAS DIVING DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE GOT ME ANYWHERE.:

SO BACK TO THE QUESTION (S):

JUST HOW IMPORTANT ARE WE WESTERN COLLECTORS IN THE GLOBAL WATCH COMMUNITY, ESPECIALLY THE SWISS WATCH MAKERS.

-----------------------------------------------PTI---------------------------------------------------------------------

WE IN THE WEST ARE IMPORTANT BUT A LONG WAY FROM THE ONLY GAME
CHINA - AND ASIA MORE GENERALLY IS HUGE AND GROWING FAST.

HOW REPRESENTATIVE ARE WE OF WHAT THE WATCH MAKERS ARE SELLING

MAYBE 50:50.
CHINESE/SWISS SIMILAR BUT ALSO KEY DIFFERENCES
SOME OF THOSE DIFFERENCES ARE HUGE AND INDICATE THE PRIME FOCUS OF VERY LARGE BRANDS ARE NON WESTERN MARKETS.

----------------------------------------------------PTC--------------------------------------------------------------

WHEN WE TALK ABOUT COMPANIES CATALOGS AND DIRECTIONS ARE WE BEING WESTERN CENTRIC DICKS AND TALKING OUT OUR ARSES?

NOT ENTIRELY - BUT MAYBE

TAKE AWAY:
IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING TO UNDERSTAND A BRAND OR WANT TO REALLY GRASP HOW A BRAND IS SHAPING ITSELF  -  STEP BACK AND CONSCIOUSLY TAKE A GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE OR RISK GETTING IT VERY WRONG.

NSOW 6-19. SEIKO Samurai Diver VLOG Notes

SEIKO SAMURAI DIVER SRPB97

QUICK REVIEW

IDENTITY


SEIKO SAMURAI DIVER SRPB97
DIVE WATCH BUT CAN BE WORN DAILY - BE HONEST REALLY A SPORTS WATCH
FIRST STEP UP THE MECHANICAL LADDER

-------------------------- GO TO LIGHT BOX ---------------------------------------------

DESIGN

• DIVER. CORE REASON FOR BEING, ISO 6425 AS A GUIDE AND GETS THERE
• LEGIBILITY - SEE MINUTES ELAPSED AT A GLANCE (5 MIN MIN)BIG FLAT DIAL AND CRYSTAL
• HIGH CONTRAST MARKERS (CLIP 1) - OFF WHITE, BUT NO FAUX PATINA
• FURTHER EMPHASISED WITH BLACKED OUT BOUNDARIES AGAINST ORANGE AND 3D EFFECT OF APPLIED MARKERS. 
• ROTATING BEZEL WITH MARKERS
• LONG MINUTE HAND (CLIP 2) AND TYPICAL SEIKO LUME
• INADVERTENT OPERATION
• UNIDIRECTIONAL BEZEL
• BIG, EASY TO USE CROWN WITH SMALL BUT REALLY CAREFULLY SHAPED GUARDS (CLIP 3)
• TOUGH
• MEETS ISO 6425. 
• 200 METER WATER RESISTANCE 
• EVERYDAY: PRETTY GOOD
• WEARABILITY: 44MM/48MM/13.5MM. ROUND DIAL/BEZEL MOUNTED OVER A SQUARED OFF CUSHION MID-CASE GIVING THE WATCH “SHOULDERS” AND AN ALTOGETHER IMPOSING LOOK 
• BUT ITS SURPRISINGLY WEARABLE. NOT OVERLY THICK (FOR A DIVER - SUB SAME THICKNESS) - LOW SET AND AGGRESSIVE ANGLED LUGS (CLIP 4) HELP 
• BUT IN THE END ITS BIG AND MIGHT NOT FIT.
• A LITTLE FLAIR.  
• PRETTY GOOD OVERALL. OBVIOUSLY THE ORANGE GETS THE PARTY STARTED. CLEVER LUG INTEGRATION (CLIP 5) EXTENDING DOWN MID CASE TO AVOID SLAB SIDES, MIX OF POLISHED AND SATIN FINISH.
• NICE CASEBACK (CLIP 6) - NORMALLY LIKE A DISPLAY BUT PREPARED TO GIVE SEIKO A PASS HERE GIVEN “REAL” DIVER AESTHETIC. 
• SEIKO HARDLEX NOT SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL - NOT TERRIBLE BUT MORE LIKELY TO SCRATCH.
• ALUMINIUM BEVEL (CLIP 7) INSERT NOT BAD - DULL FINISH MAINTAINS OVERALL AESTHETIC OF DIAL BUT FOR A BRIGHT ORANGE SPORTS WATCH MAYBE SOME MORE BLING BETTER.

EXECUTION

• MOVEMENT: 4R35, ABOVE THE 7S SERIES.
• 21,600 VPH, 41 HR PR, HACKABLE AND HANDWIND. SOLID/ACCURATE/SERVICEABLE/REPLACEABLE
• BAND: COMES WITH A CHEAP BUT SERVICEABLE BRACELET (SWAP IN) - BUT REALLY
• OK BUT I PREFER NATOS. 
• DRILLED LUGS - YAY!!! (CLIP 8)
• BUILD: CANT FAULT RUGGEDNESS. 
• ISO 6425 INCORPORATES BOTH ISO 764, ANTIMAGNETIC AND ISO 1413 SHOCK RESISTANCE. 
• EVERYTHING CLEAN/NEAT/ALIGNED WHERE IT SHOULD - YES A SEIKO THAT LINES UP!
• BUT UP CLOSE YOU DO SEE WHERE MONEY IS SAVED - WHY 4-500USD:
• SOME CREASES AND RIDGES - NOT FLUSH
• DATE INTEGRATION A BIT MEH CUT OFF INDICE (CLIP 9)
• BEZEL ACTION OK - SMOOTH BUT CLICK IS SOFT, A LITTLE DULL - ALSO JUST A FRACTION OF BACK PLAY. FINE BUT DOESNT SHOUT QUALITY.
• CROWN SCREW OK - NOT STICKY BUT A LITTLE “DRY”. 
• SIMPLE ANGLES - NO CHAMFERS (CLIP 10)
• BEZEL NOT SUPER GRIPPY (CLIP 10) - BUT OK.

----------------------------- GO TO PIECE TO CAMERA ---------------------------

MARKETPLACE

• PRICE: 
• MSRP: 525USD
• LIKELY: 400USD (MINE 350 AT EOY SALE)

ALTERNATIVES: LITERALLY HUNDREDS - FIERCELY CONTESTED SEGMENT

• OBVIOUS: 
• OTHER SEIKOS
• SKX/TURTLE COULD EVEN GO UP TO MONSTER/SUMO
• ORIENT: 
• TRITON (BUT COULD GO DOWN TO MAKO/RAY)
• A SQUILLION MICRO BRANDS - SEE JODY AT ONE MORE WATCH
• NOT SO OBVIOUS: 
• CERTINA DS - 500USD
• CITIZEN PROMASTER SCUBA - 440USD (ON SALE)

TAKE AWAY

• FOR ME - BIG GUY 19CM WRIST - THE SAMURAI IS A GOOD BLEND OF ITS TWO ROLES: 
• CLEARLY A DIVE WATCH BUT WITH LOTS OF LITTLE TWEEKS GIVE IT PERSONALITY IN THAT CASUAL SPORTS/HOLIDAY VIBE.
• EXECUTION IS OK WITH NO OBVIOUS QC ISSUES - LIKELY TO LAST A LIFETIME AND BE EASY TO SERVICE OVER THE JOURNEY.
• YOU NEED TO BE AWARE OF SIZE.
• HAVE TO ACCEPT DESIGNED AND EXECUTED TO A PRICE 
• COMPETITORS: STACKS UP PRETTY WELL - BROADLY COMPETITIVE ON DESIGN/EXECUTION/PRICE IN THIS SEGMENT. I THINK THERE MAY BE BETTER VALUE IN THE MICRO BRANDS WHO NEED TO TRY HARDER BUT OTOH THIS GETS YOU INTO A COLLECTING ZONE AND CERTAINTY HAS VALUE.
• RECOMMEND IF YOU WANT A FULL ON DIVER THAT DOES WEEKEND CASUAL WORK TOO AND YOU WANT THE CERTAINTY AND COLLECTABILITY THAT COMES WITH A BIG BRAND.

NSOW 4-19: ALPINA STARTIMER PILOT AUTO REVIEW

Note: this is barely a blog post. Actually these are my notes for a youtube video I've done reviewing this watch. See it at here.

ALPINA STARTIMER PILOT AUTO.  REF AL-525G4TS6

PILOT WATCH AND DAILY WEAR/ONE WATCH
ENTRY LEVEL SWISS

Roles
PILOT:

• SUPREME LEGIBILITY - ACCURATE AT A GLANCE

EVERDAY:

• WEARABILITY/A LITTLE CLASS/A LITTLE FLARE/A LITTLE TOUGH

Design
PILOT.  NAILS IT.

• BIG FLAT DIAL AND CRYSTAL,
• HUGE HIGH CONTRAST MARKERS, CLEAR MINUTE TRACK
• FURTHER EMPHASISED WITH POLISHED BOUNDARIES AND 3D EFFECT OF APPLIED MARKERS.
• LONG, HIGHLY VISIBLE BUT ALSO THIN HANDS.
• HUGE, EASY TO USE CROWN

EVERDAY: ALMOST PERFECT - TOO BIG?

• WEARABILITY: 44MM/52MM/10MM. IMPOSING LOOK - BUT (LIKE MANY ALPINAS) SURPRISINGLY WEARABLE. THIN.
• LOW SET AND AGGRESSIVE CURVED LUGS HELP BUT IN THE END ITS BIG AND MIGHT NOT FIT.

• A LITTLE CLASS. DEEP BLUE/GREY DIAL - SIMPLE FONTS - EXCELLENT DATE INTEGRATION - COHERENT AND PROPORTIONATE CASE - SUBTLE CASE SHAPING AND FINISHING CLEARLY ELEVATE FROM THE COCKPIT.
• LESS PRINT ON DIAL WOULD BE GOOD THOUGH.
• NICE CASEBACK BUT DISPLAY MIGHT HAVE WORKED BETTER.
• 21MM LUG SPACING NOT IDEAL.
• A LITTLE FLARE. ALL GOOD. SILVERING OF NUMERALS AND INDICES - HINTS OF COLOUR IN ALPINA INSIGNIA - TOUCHES OF POLISH AND SLIGHT BEVELLING.
• A LITTLE TOUGH. BANG ON. 316L STEEL CONSTRUCTION, SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL, SCREW DOWN CASE BACK AND CROWN GIVING 100M WATER RESISTANCE. NOT TOO SOFT - NOT TOO HARD - JUST RIGHT.

EXECUTION
MOVEMENT: AL525/SW 200 PERFECT CHOICE.
BAND: SIMPLE BLACK SUEDE BAND WHITE STITCHING.

• NICE - I PREFER NATOS. 

BUILD: CANT FAULT IT.

• EVERYTHING CLEAN/NEAT/ALIGNED.
• CROWN SCREW FEELS A LITTLE ROUGH
• WOULD HAVE LOVED DRILLED LUGS

MARKETPLACE
PRICE:

• MSRP:   1050USD
• LIKELY:  650USD (LOW AS 500)

ALTERNATIVES:

• OBVIOUS: ORIS BIG CROWN PRO PILOT (1700/1200): BETTER NAME, SIMPLER, MORE TOOLY, SMALLER at 41MM, TWICE THE PRICE
• NOT SO OBVIOUS: 
• FORTIS. SPACEMATIC/COCKPIT/FLIEGER - Lots of options, best alternatives.
• LACO/STOWA - More flieger, less versatile, more expensive
• HAMILTON KHAKI PILOT - More flieger, less versatile, less dressy
• SINN 556 - 1100USD - More tooly less piloty, far more expensive

TAKE AWAY

ROLE SATISFACTION:

• FOR ME - BIG GUY WITH 19CM WRIST - THE ALPINA IS A BRILLIANT BLEND OF ITS TWO ROLES.  CLEARLY A PILOT WATCH BUT WITH LOTS OF LITTLE TWEEKS TO LIFT IT OUT OF THE FLIEGER CROWD AND GIVE IT REAL EVERYDAY ONE WATCH VERSATILITY.
• WELL EXECUTED AND LIKELY TO LAST A LIFETIME AND BE EASY TO SERVICE OVER THE JOURNEY.
• ONLY REAL CONCERN IS SIZE.

COMPETITORS:

• STACKS UP REALLY WELL - COMPETITIVE ON DESIGN/EXECUTION/PRICE/ WITH EVERYTHING ELSE IN THIS SEGMENT. SERIOUS VALUE PROPOSITION