The Battle for Hodinkee Hill

The Hodinkee Clock launched, sold out and became the latest hill for people to die on as I was, you’d never guess, in the final edit of a video on why some of us get so upset with bad limited editions. It was a great video, full of unique insights and couldn’t be changed (ie I was lazy and never going to do a reshoot). In as few words as possible, the thesis of my argument was that we watch folk like to imagine we are more than just consumers. We like to think our hobby is more than just consumption. A ‘bad’ limited edition is so crass, such an obvious money grab that the veil of ignorance is ripped away, we can no longer suspend our disbelief in our situation and the watchseller reaches out through the screen and rubs our noses in the FOMO like a dog caught pissing on the carpet.

I wrote the Hodinkee Clock off as one of those, figured it would be all over red rover the next day and moved on.

And yet, here we are. Comments shut down, new articles defending the hill written, new charges up the hill from the angry mobs and its still going on. I feel this is more than just a “bad” limited edition. Reading through the comments on the most recent Hodinkee article defending their release of the Clock of Doom is clear there are four broad camps.

First, there’s the camp with two lost blokes and their dog that arent sure where they actually are but appear to be next to a sign saying “We love this clock, its the best thing ever.”

Then there’s a very large group of hard headed mercenaries watching the fight going on over of the hill slopes wondering “whats all that about?”. These are people who flipped their heart some years ago because after reconsidering their emotional box figured it wasn't really in the rotation and if its not being used may as well pass it on. Sometimes they wonder about that decision but YOLO, no regrets and my god have you seen what they charge for a heart on the secondary market? In any rate, the Hodinkee Clock worries them not a jot.

Next there’s an odd assortment of people with uncertain motives in all but one regard - they are Hodinkee loyalists taking to defend the walls even Hodinkee staff dont. This is an odd assortment of folks, some mercenaries, others, bleeding hearts. Many acknowledge that their Hodinkee isnt perfect while others can’t countenance the idea of change (or want Hodinkee to move even further in a new direction). However, all will not tolerate their Hodinkee being criticised, by anyone, even those that say they too love Hodinkee. They defend Hodinkee in a variety of ways from the passive cheering on via messages of support through to the active investigation and trolling of the critics.

Then there’s the rest, the bleeding hearted, namby pamby, whiners (yeah, people like me). Over emotional blow hards, over thinking, over analysing and writing comments to ourselves about the good old days when watches were tools, things had value, and we were all in this together. We’re the ones storming up the hill. But what are we fighting for?

Frankly I’m not sure. I suspect, like many an uprising there are lots of causes in the crowd and trying to pin down just one is nigh on impossible. But I’ll try, in short the bleeding hearts are fighting for the soul of Hodinkee (and perhaps this hobby). This fight boils down to this, what is Hodinkee and by extension, who are we?

Is Hodinkee Stevie and Cara or Jason and James?

Does Hodinkee talk about the industry or for it?

Does Hodinkee tell us about stuff or sell us stuff?

Does Hodinkee prize the value in a tool watch or laugh and say how can one value art?

Ultimately, is Hodinkee one of us, or one of them?

Frankly, we bleeding hearts know the answers to all those questions, we know they aren’t the answers we’d like. But we’ll have the fight anyway. Why, because life is a fight, for everyone, all the time and all you get to choose is your side. And secondly because you’ve only truly lost when you stop getting back in the ring.

Seiko Prospex 200M Automatic Blue “Baby MM” Ref. SBDC063

MODEL.  Seiko Prospex 200M Automatic Blue “Baby MM” Ref. SBDC063
REFERENCE. SBDC063 (JDM VERSION OF SPB079)
YEAR. BASELWORLD 2018 - CURRENT. 
STYLE/SHAPE.   DIVER - QUASI HERITAGE REISSUE
MARKET. MID LEVEL JAPANESE DIVER - AROUND 1000USD

FUNCTIONS (WHAT CAN IT DO?)

FUNCTIONS - TIME/DATE
SIMPLE 6R15 - HACK/HANDWIND/QUICK SET DATE
LEGIBILITY – INCREDIBLE 
BIG FLAT DIAL - CLEAN HI CONTRAST INDICIES - FLAT AS A TACK CRYSTAL WITH AR
SIMPLE SWORD HANDS, MIN HAND LONG.   COMBINED WITH MARKERS ON REHAUT
MONSTER HOUR OUT OF THE WAY BUT REALLY OBVIOUS
POWER RESERVE.  50 HOUR - LITTLE OVER THE STANDARD 38-42 IN THIS RANGE. 
SHORT OF THE 70HR THE BLACKBAY GIVES BUT 5TH THE PRICE

VERSATILITY (WHO CAN IT FIT AND HOW CAN IT BE USED)
WEARABILITY - WHO. 
44mm X 51mm X 13.1 mm
ON THE BIGGER SIDE - VERY EASY ON MY 7.5INCH WRIST
LUGS SWEEP LOW, SHAPING THE WATCH TO WRIST AND HELPING 6.5 SHOULD OK

ROBUSTNESS - DOING WHAT
316L STEEL/SAPPHIRE
GREAT STEP UP FROM HARDLEX
NEW SEIKO’S DIASHIELD COATING ON THE CASE AND BRACELET, PROVIDING BETTER SCRATCH-PROTECTION AND EXTRA CORROSION RESISTANCE.
NO IDEA WHAT THIS IS - APPEARS TO BE A COATING NOT A TREATMENT
SPRON 510 MAINSPRING CO-NI-CR-MO ALLOY IT IS NON-MAGNETIC AND FEATURES ULTRA HIGH ELASTICITY AND HIGH MECHANICAL STRENGTH, AS WELL AS HIGH DURABILITY AND HEAT RESISTANCE.
STAINLESS STEEL BEZEL MY FAVORITE MATERIAL I THINK - GOLDILOCKS - HARDER TO SCRATCH BUT WONT SHATTER LIKE SAPPHIRE
200 M WATER RESISTANCE - AND SCREW DOWN CROWN
NO CROWN GUARDS BUT REALLY? IS THAT ACTUALLY AN ISSUE?

BANDS - WITH
COMES ON A SIMPLE SILICON ACCORDIAN STYLE BAND - REALLY NICE HARDWARE THOUGH
20MM - SUPER COMMON
DRILLED LUGS - VERY CHANGEABLE.
QUITE HEAVY, LUGS NOT SUPER LOW COMPARED TO LITTLE POT BELLIED CASEBACK  SO A BIT WOBBLY ON A NATO.

OCCASIONS - WHEN AND WHERE
PRETTY MUCH ANYTIME - ANY PLACE
THE SLIGHTLY VINTAGE FEEL, SUBDUED COLOURS AND DISCRETION FROM ITS SLOPY MAGIC VANISHING TRICK MEANS THIS DIVER CAN PROBABLY GO JUST ABOUT ANYWHERE
PEOPLE TALK ABOUT SUBMARINERS FITTING IN ANYWHERE AND I THINK I GET THAT NOW - THIS IS ABSOLUTELY NOT A SUBBY KNOCK-OFF BUT ITS PULLING THE SAME TRICK.

LOOKS (TO YOU AND OTHER PEOPLE)

CLASSIC DIVER
BIG AND CHUNKY BUT NOT A LUMP
ITS A RETRO INSPIRED DESIGN BUT COULD BE MODERN
LOOK MODERN ON ITS OWN BUT RETRO NEXT TO ALPINA
CARNIVAL OF COMPOUND  CURVES, BARELY A STRAIGHT LINE TO BE SEEN
CURVE TOP TO BOTTOM AND END TO END
SCALLOPS AND SUBTLE BULGES
NO FEATURELESS SLABS OF STEEL
BUT ALSO NOT FUSSY - THE CURVES ARE LONG
THE SURFACES ARE BROAD AND RUN THE LENGTH OF THE CASE
ANGLED NOT FACETED
COMBINATION OF THESE SWEEPING CURVES AND SLIGHTLY THICK BEZEL IS THE VISUALLY SHRINK THE WATCH
SLOPING SHOULDERS
COMPARE TO ALPINA - ONLY ABOUT HALF A MM IN SIZE
HAD TO MEASURE IT - I DIDN'T BELIEVE THE SIZING
FINISHING AMAZING AT THIS PRICE
HIGH POLISH - DOUBT ITS SEIKOS ZARATZU - ON TWO ASPECTS OF CASE FLANKS
CIRCULAR BRUSHING BUT SO FAINT I THOUGHT IT WAS A NON DIRECTIONAL SATIN FINISH ON LUGS

DIAL 
SO SIMPLE BUT BEAUTIFUL - THIS IS A SEIKO STYLE I KNOW BUT REMINDS ME OF ALPINA SEASTRONG DIVER THAT SAME BEAUTIFUL SPARSENESS
HANDS ARE SIMPLE AND FUNCTIONAL BUT WORK WITH THE INDICIES
LUMABRITE FILLING GIVING UNIFIED LOOK
SILVERED INDICE/HAND SURROUNDS ADD A TOUCH OF CLASS AND IN THE RIGHT LIGHT MAKE THE ENSEMBLE REALLY POP
REHAUT MARKERS ADD VISUAL APPEAL AS WELL AS A FUNCTION
LOOKING DOWN KIND OF OUT OF WAY
FROM ANGLE ADD INTEREST

BEZEL
SLIGHTLY THICK BEZEL (?) I THINK
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE THE BLUE - REALLY DEEP CYAN - TOUCH OF GREEN - A PETROL BLUE
ONLY COLOUR ON THE WATCH AND STEEL/METALLIC NATURE DOESNT JAR WITH THE REST - ALMOST FORMS A VISUAL BRIDGE BETWEEN THE PLAIN STEEL AND BLACK

DATE. OK.
IN AT THE 3 - NICELY INTEGRATED
GOOD CHOICE TO JUST REPLACE INDICE - RATHER THAN MASH IT
WHITE ON BLACK NOT AWFUL
WHITE SEMI MATCHED WITH LUMED IN HANDS
BUT I THINK I WOULD HAVE PREFERED WHITE ON BLACK

SPEAKING OF LUME - NOT NORMALLY SOMETHING I CARE ABOUT BUT HERE IMPORTANT SEIKOS LUMABRITE IS JUSTIFIABLY FAMOUS

CASE BACK NOTHING SPECIAL
CLASS SEIKO TSUNAMI AND SPEC SHEET
NICE BUT UNSPECTACULAR

ON THE WRIST LOOKS.  
LESS PRESNENCE THAN NOMINAL SIZE WOULD INDICATE
THAT MAGIC VANISHING TRICK COSTS YOU THERE
VERY NICE THOUGH
WATCH SITS REASONABLY FLAT
BUT LITTLE POT BELLIED MVMT MEANS STIS A LITTLE HIGH
HAVEN'T TRIED ON A NATO - WOULD GO FOR A THIN ONE ONLY
FEEL.

CONTROLS - OK - TYPICAL 46r15 FEEL
CROWN BIG END OF MIDDLING - COMMON 7MM, EASY TO GRIP, SOLID POP, POSITIONS CLEAN AND POSITIVE I HIT RIGHT POSITION EVERY TIME
TYPICAL SEIKO KIND OF BUZZY TO WIND
IN THE HAND. HEAVY - SMOOTH - QUALITY - CLEAN .

ON THE WRIST.  SOME HEFT BUT COMFORTABLE.
THIS ONE IS COMFORTABLE
SCALLOPING FROM CASEBACK TO MID CASE HELPS
ALSO SITS NICE AN SNUG SO VERY SECURE.

BUILD.

CASE EXCELLENT - 
OK - FROM A BUILD POV THE CASE IS PRETTY SIMPLE BUT
THIS WOULD NOT BE AN EASY CASE SHAPE - THOSE COMPLEX CURVES REQUIRE GOOD MACHINING  AND POLISHING
POLISH GREAT, BRUSHING FINE AND LIGHT
DIAL.  LIKE THE CASE SIMPLE SO NOT A LOT OF OPPORTUNE TO SHINE
HANDS NICE OF SUBSTANTIAL - NO OBVIOUS FLASHING LEFT OVER
LUME VERY WELL APPLIED, EVEN AND DEEP
SAME WITH THE INDICIES - SIMPLE, WELL PLACED, NO FLAWS , EVERYTHING WHERE IT SHOULD BE

BEZEL.  120 CLICK UNIDIRECTIONAL AS YOU’D EXPECT
BUTTERY - EACH CLICK IS DISTINCT BUT THE RACHET ROLLS FROM CLICK TO CLICK
LITTLE BIT OF PLAY - MEANS WHILE IN THEORY EVERYTHING LINES UP, IN PRACTICE YOU CAN MISS
MOVEMENT. ITS A 6R15 SERIES.  SO STILL WORKMANLIKE BUT MORE SO.
NOT ESPECIALLY ACCURATE -  SPECCED AT +25/-15 BUT THATS NOT SEIKOS AIM
WILL NOT LET YOU DOWN
THESE ARE MOVEMENTS PEOPLE CAN - AND DO - BET THEIR LIVES ON

EASE OF OWNERSHIP

MSRP - ABOUT 800-950 USD DEPENDING ON BAND OPTION.
CAN GET THEM AT 690 AT GNOMON - VOUCH FOR THEIR DELIVERY
SPECTACULAR VALUE
MAINTENANCE:
ITS AN UNTOUCHED SEIKO CAN IT BE EASIER?
FINDING ONE. DESPITE BEING JDM ITS A PIECE OF PISS - GNOMON, JAPAN ONLINE STORE AND MANY OTHERS HAVE THEM
LONG ISLAND DID TOO UNTIL RECENTLY - LOVE TO KNOW THAT STORY.

AUTHENTICITY. - 50:50 ON AUTHENTICITY WATCH
TRUE TO HISTORY.  IN 2017 SEIKO GREAT SUCCESS WITH SBDC051/53 MODELS.
SEIKO RETURNED TO THEIR HISTORY BOOKS AND INTRODUCED A PAIR OF PROSPEX DIVERS BASED ON THEIR 1968 VINTAGE REFERENCE 6159
THE SBDC061 AND SBDC063 ARE BEST DESCRIBED AS INSPIRED BY THE 6159 RATHER THAN REISSUES
LINEAGE IS CERTAINLY THERE BUT THE NEW BOY IS FAR MORE SOPHISTICATED
DIFFERENCE IS MNF 1968 TO 2019
DESIGN (TRUE TO ITSELF).  ABSOLUTELY - THE DESIGNERS HAVE NOT BEEN CONSTRAINED BY THE PAST:
SIZING
SHAPING
MONSTER HANDS
FINISHING
ALL JUST - BETTER AND YET - IT HASNT DITCHED ITS ROOTS
TREADING THE LINE PERFECTLY IN MY VIEW.
TRANSPARENCY/HONESTY. AS HONEST AS THE DAY IS LONG - DOES PRECISELY WHAT IT SAYS ON THE TIN..

POSITIONAL POWER - HOW IT WILL BE SEEN BY OTHERS
(HIGH SCHOOL CROWD - JOCK/CHEERLEADER/GEEK/BADBOY/GREYMAN/PREPPY/HIPSTER/TRADIE ETC)

ITS A SEIKO - LIKE IT OR NOT THAT WILL LIMIT THE VIEWS OF THIS WATCH
FOR BETTER OR WORSE, NOT TOO HIGH, BUT NOT TOO LOW
THEY ARE FAMILIAR AND FAMILIAR AS MATES NOT CELEBRITIES
LOCAL FOOTBALL STAR VS THE INTERNATIONAL WE SEE ON EUROSPORT
BUT IT HAS AN AIR OF QUALITY THAT SETS IT APART
HES A LOCAL BUT HE COULD MAKE IT IF ONLY HE GOT A BREAK
THIS ONE IN PARTICULAR ISNT COMMON
NOT A MALL BUY
YOU SOUGHT THIS ONE OUT
THATS WORTH SOMETHING

SO WHAT’S THE VERDICT - SWIPE RIGHT (GOOD) OR LEFT (BAD)
SWIPE HARD RIGHT
GREAT LOOKS
WELL BUILT
REALLY SOLID VALUE
NOT SUPER COMMON BUT REALLY EASY TO LIVE WITH
MY SEIKO STORY -
I COLLECT SEIKO DIVERS - GOT 5, REVIEWED 4 NOW AND PREVIOUSLY BEEN A BIT AMBIVALENT
THIS WATCH IS WHY I LOVE SEIKOS
THE TURTLE/SAMURAI AND MONSTER ARE GREAT VALUE
THIS IS JUST A GREAT WATCH
FOR NEW COLLECTORS - I REALLY RECOMMEND STARTING HERE IF YOU CAN

IN HOUSE - WHAT’S THE BIG DEAL?

THESE ARE THE NOTES FOR MY VIDEO YOU CAN WATCH HERE:

I MUST CREDIT THE GUYS AT WATCHESBYSJX - I LEANT VERY HEAVILY ON AN ARTICLE ON THEIR SITE. YOU CAN SEE THAT HERE:

click here

INTRO

LUXURY WATCHES HAVE LONG BEEN MARKETED AS STATUS SYMBOLS

IVE DONE A COUPLE OF VIDEOS TOUCHING ON THIS AND THEIR POWER AS POSITIONAL GOODS.

I INCLUDE AN ASSESSMENT OF THE POSITIONAL POWER OF WATCHES IN MY WATCH REVIEWS.

A LUXURY WATCH IS A GOOD EXAMPLE OF “CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION”

KEY PART OF THE LUXURY WATCH SURVIVAL STRATEGY

BUT DOESNT REALLY WORK FOR “IN-HOUSE” MOVEMENTS.

NOT CONSPICUOUS NOR IS THIS A HISTORICALLY RELEVENT THING - ITS ACTUALLY A VERY RECENT DEVELOPMENT - WHATS GOING ON?

FIRST SOME BACKGROUND

STRICTLY SPEAKING, AN IN-HOUSE OR MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT IS A MOVEMENT PRODUCED IN A WATCH BRAND’S OWN FACTORY.

IF WE LOOK AT THE LITTLE INDEPENDENT LIKE FP JOURNE THIS MAKES SENSE.

BUT IN THE 21ST CENTURY WHERE ‘BRANDS’ ARE SIMPLY THE MARKETING ARM OF HUGE MULTI BILLION DOLLAR ENTITIES SPANNING THE GLOBE

ALMOST ALWAYS OFTEN BROKEN INTO CHUNKS TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF TAX/LABOUR/IP/SCALE ISSUES

ROUTINELY THESE GROUPS ARE THE RESULT OF DECADES OF ACCRETION WITH ONCE INDEPENDENT SUPPLIERS BECOMING PART OF THE GROUP BY ACQUISITION WITH ONLY LOOSE CONNECTIONS TO THE REST OF THE GROUP

AND WHAT DOES THIS REALLY MEAN?

I’VE BEEN RESEARCHING THIS FOR A FEW WEEKS AND I CANT FIND A DEFINITION I TRUST AND CAN USE IN GOOD FAITH.

MAYBE ITS UNIMPORTANT TO DEFINE - MAYBE ITS IMPORTANT NOT TO DEFINE?

BECAUSE THE AMBIGUITY IN MEANING SERVES TO HIGHLIGHT EVEN MORE JUST HOW EMOTIONAL THE DESIRE IS TO HAVE WHATEVER THIS IN HOUSE THING IS

THAT MAKES IT EVEN MORE INTERESTING TO KNOW WHY IS THIS SO IMPORTANT AND WHY NOW?

HISTORY

IT WAS ACTUALLY PRETTY UNUSUAL IN THE SWISS WATCH INDUSTRY FOR INHOUSE CONSTRUCTION

HISTORICALLY, MOST SWISS WATCH BRANDS RELIED ON A NETWORK OF COOPERATIVE AND INTERDEPENDENT SUPPLIERS FOR MOVEMENT KITS (KNOWN AS ÉBAUCHES) AND COMPONENTS - CASES, HANDS, DIALS CRYSTALS ETC.

THIS WORKED PERFECTLY WELL FOR CENTURIES AND ENABLED EACH SUPPLIER, EVEN VERY SMALL OUTFITS, TO ACHIEVE ECONOMIES OF SCALE - AND AMAZING LEVELS OF WORKMANSHIP IN THE PRODUCTION OF SPECIFIC COMPONENTS.

BUT ALL THIS HAS CHANGED. SOME TIME IN THE LATE 1990’S IT SUDDENLY BECAME IMPORTANT - WHY?

A ‘CLASSIC’ ARGUMENT WOULD BE OUR OLD FRIEND CONSPICUOUS CONSUMPTION

BUT IT DOESN'T QUITE WORK.

AN IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT IS OFTEN INCONSPICUOUS, KNOWN ONLY TO THE BUYER AND MAYBE A FEW EDUCATED WATCH ENTHUSIASTS.

PROFESSOR ELIZABETH CURRID-HALKETT, AUTHOR OF THE SUM OF SMALL THINGS: A THEORY OF THE ASPIRATIONAL CLASS, MIGHT HAVE AN ANSWER: CONSPICUOUS PRODUCTION.

WHAT IS CONSPICUOUS PRODUCTION?

THE THEORY OF CONSPICUOUS PRODUCTION SUGGESTS THAT THE VALUE OF A PRODUCT IS DERIVED PRIMARILY FROM A DISTINCTIVE PROCESS OF CREATION.

PAY MORE FOR A CUP OF COFFEE BREWED FROM SINGLE-ORIGIN BEANS,

SMALL-BATCH BOURBON WHISKEY,

CRAFT BEER BREWED LOCALLY OR

BOUGHT A WATCH BECAUSE IT HAD AN IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT,

WHY DID CONSPICUOUS PRODUCTION BECOME A THING?

THE RISE OF CONSPICUOUS PRODUCTION WAS DRIVEN LARGELY BY THE RISE OF INFORMATION TRANSPARENCY AND A BACKLASH AGAINST GLOBALIZATION AND THE COMMODIFICATION OF EVERYTHING AND THE FLATTENING OF DIFFERENCE.

FROM THESE TRENDS, A NEW SET OF CONSUMER VALUES EMERGED THAT PRIZED THINGS LIKE TRADITIONAL CRAFTSMANSHIP, TRANSPARENCY, QUALITY, AND DISTINCTIVENESS.

BRANDS RECOGNIZED THAT AFFLUENT CONSUMERS WOULD BE WILLING TO PAY MORE FOR THINGS, EVEN ORDINARY CUPS OF COFFEE, IF THEY WERE MADE IN A WAY THAT ALIGNED WITH THESE NEW VALUES.

THIS ZEITGEIST EMERGED ACROSS THE WESTERN WORLD - THE RETURN OF THE INDIE GARAGE BAND AND GRUNGE, THE RISE OF CRAFT BEER, THE EXPLOSION OF WHOLE FOODS AND TRADER JOES, LOCAL FARMERS MARKETS POPPING UP IN MIDDLE CLASS SUBURBIA. REALITY BITES WAS OUR FAVORITE MOVIE.

CONSPICUOUS PRODUCTION APPEARS TO HAVE THE MOST SIGNIFICANT IMPACT ON PRODUCT CATEGORIES THAT ARE DIFFICULT FOR CONSUMERS TO JUDGE AND UNDERSTAND.

WINE, COFFEE, AND BEER ARE PERFECT EXAMPLES, SINCE MOST CONSUMERS CANNOT CONFIDENTLY DISTINGUISH TASTING NOTES, OR TELL ONE BRAND FROM ANOTHER BY TASTE ALONE.

IT’S MUCH EASIER FOR CONSUMERS TO UNDERSTAND CONCEPTS LIKE ORGANIC, BIODYNAMIC, SMALL-BATCH, AND OLD-VINE,

AND THESE CAN BE STAMPED ON A LABEL.

SO WHATS ALL THIS GOT TO DO WITH WATCHES?

REMEMBER WHEN THIS WAS HAPPENING - THE MID 90’S/2000’S

IT WAS THE RISE OF INTERNET WATCH FORUMS - USUALLY SIMPLE TEXT BASED BULLETIN BOARDS - AND WATCH COLLECTING WAS GROWING AND DEMOCRATISING

OLDER COLLECTORS WILL TALK ABOUT HOW PRE THIS TIME WATCH COLLECTING WAS A SOLO AFFAIR AND MOST PEOPLE WOULD NEVER TALK TO ANYONE ELSE ABOUT WATCHES

IN THIS WORLD, FOR THE FIRST TIME, COLLECTORS BEGAN TO NOTICE JUST HOW MANY OF THE WATCHES THEY WERE BUYING WERE POWERED BY AN ETA 2892 OR VALJOUX 7750.

THE PROBLEM FOR CONSUMERS WASN’T IN THE USE OF THESE MOVEMENTS, BUT RATHER IN THE INHERENT CONTRADICTION SIMULTANEOUSLY TOUTING THE SUPREMACY OF ONE WATCH OVER ANOTHER WITH WHILE THE WATCHES ONLY DIFFERENTIATED IN WAYS THAT WERENT EASY TO UNDERSTAND AND COMMUNICATE.

THE FUNCTIONAL DIFFERENCE FROM ONE WATCH TO ANOTHER ARE OFTEN NOT GREAT

MOST PEOPLE STRUGGLE TO ARTICULATE OR UNDERSTAND SUBTLE NUANCES OF HAND FINISHING.

AND EVEN THATS EASY - HOW ABOUT UNDERSTANDING THE HARD STUFF, THE ARTY BITS, WHERE YOU HAVE TO UNDERSTAND CONCEPTS LIKE PROPORTION, HARMONY, CONGRUENCE, COMFORT AND TENSION.

WHILE THE NET HAS STILL AND MOVING IMAGES THE DIFFICULTIES IN UNDERSTANDING AND ARTICULATING COMPLEX AND OFTEN ARCANE CONCEPTS LIKE GOOD DESIGN HAVEN'T REALLY GONE AWAY.

LIKEWISE - THE CONTINUING GROWTH OF THE HOBBY MEANS THE ‘COLLECTING’ COMMUNITY IS RELATIVELY IMMATURE AND LESS CONFIDENT

SO ALL IN ALL THE WATCH WORLD IS THE PERFECT ENVIRONMENT FOR THE IDEA OF CONSPICUOUS PRODUCTION TO TAKE HOLD.

I MIGHT STRUGGLE TO DESCRIBE WHY THE TAPER OF THE LONGITUDINAL CURVE FROM MID CASE TO LUG END IS PARTICULARLY PLEASING BUT I CAN SURE AS SHIT TELL YOU THE WATCH HAS AN IN HOUSE MOVEMENT.

SO WHY I UNDERSTAND BUT DON'T FEEL THE PUSH

FIRST RE-EMPHASIZE WE ARE TALKING THE BIG GUYS - NOT INDEPENDENTS LIKE FP JOURNE ETC

IM A POSTER CHILD FOR THAT MOVEMENT OF THE 90’S AND 2000’S FOR ALL THIS ARTISANAL AND TRANSPARENT STUFF. MUST OF THAT STUFF ABOUT COFFEE ETC IS ME.

I TALK A BIG GAME ABOUT TRANSPARENCY AND SUCH.


AND YET I FIND MYSELF NOT REALLY CARING - WHAT GIVES?

LETS GO BACK:

WHAT DO WE WANT AND WHY:

CRAFTSMANSHIP, DISTINCTIVENESS, ENGINEERING PROWESS, AUTHENTICITY, AND THE PRESERVATION OF UNIQUE SKILLS; ALL GOOD THINGS.

AND WHY? WHY GLOBALISATION AND TRANSPARENCY

I DON'T THINK IN HOUSE MOVEMENTS ARE GIVING US THAT:

IN FACT I’D POSIT ITS DRIVES THE REVERSE.

WHILE THERE IS NO DOUBT THAT THERE IS A MUCH LARGER NUMBER OF IN-HOUSE MOVEMENTS ON THE MARKET TODAY THAN IN THE LATE 1990S OR EARLY 2000S THESE MOVEMENTS ARE EFFECTIVELY SUBTLE VARIATIONS OF A FEW BASIC DESIGNS AND IN THE MASS MARKET OFFER LITTLE OR NO INNOVATIONS.

INSTEAD HUGE AMOUNTS OF INTELLECTUAL AND MONETARY CAPITAL IS GOING INTO DEVELOPING RELATIVELY PEDESTRIAN IN HOUSE MOVEMENTS.

THIS DESIRE TO INVEST IN BASIC PRODUCTION FACILITIES IS COSTING US PRODUCT PEOPLE CAPABLE OF DESIGNING US SOMETHING NEW.

I ALSO BELIEVE ITS USED AS A WEAPON TO DISCREDIT THE SMALLER PLAYERS - TO EITHER MARGINALISE THEM OR DRIVE THEM TO THE WALL BY FORCING OVERINVESTMENT.

BECAUSE LETS REMEMBER ITS ONLY THE REALLY BIG GUYS OF THE BIG GUYS THAT CAN AFFORD THIS.

REMEMBER THAT CONCERN WE HAD ABOUT GLOBALISATION - ITS VERY INTERESTING THAT THIS PUSH FOR IN HOUSE MOVEMENTS ACTUALLY DOES PRECISELY THE OPPOSITE - IT SUPPORTS THE GLOBAL CORPORATION AND ENSHRINES THEIR POSITION.

AS FOR CRAFTSMANSHIP AND AGE OLD SKILLS VIRTUALLY NONE OF THE BIG BRANDS CAN CREDIBLY ASSERT THAT THEIR WATCHES ARE HANDMADE OR THAT THEY POSSESSES UNIQUE EXPERTISE IN DESIGNING MOVEMENTS.

THEY PLAY UP THE IDEA THAT THEY PRODUCE THEIR MOVEMENTS IN-HOUSE, WHILE PAYING LIP SERVICE TO THINGS LIKE CRAFTSMANSHIP AND AUTHENTICITY BY BUYING BANKS OF CNC MACHINES CHURNING OUT MILLIONS OF IDENTIKIT MOVEMENTS

HAVE YOU NOTICED HOW PICTURES OF THESE GLEAMING NEW FACTORIES SHOW PEOPLE ASSEMBLING WATCHES BUT NEVER EVER SHOW THE MACHINES THAT MADE THE PIECES.

GO TO ROLEX AND YOU’LL SEE PICTURES OF A FOUNDRY AND GOLD POURING FROM A CRUCIBLE BEFORE MOVING SEAMLESSLY TO AND WATCH MAKERS AT BENCHES - BUT IN-BETWEEN? NEVER!

SO IN THE END I DON'T CARE ABOUT - OR EVEN FOR - FOR IN HOUSE MOVEMENTS

I’D PREFER MY ETA OR SELLITA - YEAH THEY ARE MASS PRODUCED THIRD PARTY MOVEMENTS - THEY REALLY ON MACHINES ETC ETC - BUT THEY DON'T LIE TO ME AND THEY DON'T COST ME THE REAL DIVERSITY AND DISTINCTIVENESS I VALUE IN WATCHES.

NSOW: Oris Divers 65 (first version) Review.

As always these are just my notes used to make my video review.  For that you want to go HERE


MODEL. ORIS DIVER 65

REFERENCE. 01 733 7707 4065 - 07 4 20 18

YEAR. INTRODUCED IN 2015 - THIS RETRO RE-ISSUE ONLY LASTED A FEW YEARS - REPLACED MORE NORMAL

STYLE/SHAPE. RETRO DIVER - MORE LIKE THE OLD ‘SKINDIVERS’ - DEAUVILLE BLUE/GREY (ALSO AO IN BLACK)

MARKET. ENTRY TO MID TIER MECHANICAL SWISS - FROM A PRICE POV ENTRY BUT SWINGS A BIG BAT - MORE ON THAT LATER

FUNCTIONS (WHAT CAN IT DO?)

FUNCTIONS - TIME/DATE

SIMPLE SW200 - HACK/HANDWIND/QUICK SET DATE

28800 BPH - 4HZ - COMPARED TO THE 3 YOU’LL GET FROM SEIKO A HI-BEAT

LEGIBILITY – GOOD - BUT NOT REALLY AIMING AT SUPER PRECISION

SIMPLE BATONS HANDS EASY TO SEE

BUT MARKINGS AREN'T DESIGNED TO GET TO THE MINUTE ACCURACY

DOMING OF DIAL, AND CRYSTAL AND BIG BOLD SIXTIES NUMERALS ABOUT LOOKS RATHER THAN FINE TIMINGS.

BUT NEVER FEAR - YOU’LL KNOW THE TIME FINE

POWER RESERVE. 38 HOUR - REMAINS AROUND INDUSTRY STD - TO GET MORE NEEDS GOING UP TO TUDOR OR OMEGA AT DOUBLE THE PRICE

VERSATILITY (WHO CAN IT FIT AND HOW CAN IT BE USED)

WEARABILITY.

40MM X 45MM BAR TO BAR X 13MM - A LOT OF THAT THE CRYSTAL

SVELTE LITTLE THING FOR A DIVER - VERY EASY ON MY 7.5INCH WRIST

LUGS ARENT AN AGGRESSIVE SWEEP BUT SHORT AND THIN I RECKON YOU CAN GO PRETTY SMALLER WITH THIS ONE

ROBUSTNESS

316L STEEL/DOMED SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL

AS GOOD AS IT GETS

NOTE BEZEL IS ALUMINIUM SO MAY TAKE A BIT OF A BATTERING IN THE LONG TERM BUT UNLIKELY TO BE A REAL ISSUE

100 M WATER RESISTANCE - WITH SCREW DOWN CROWN

CONTROVERSIAL HERE

SOME LOVE HOW IT STAYS WITH ORIGINAL

PERSONALLY IM NOT A FAN - ITS 2019 - IF WE CAN GO UP IN SIZE WE CAN GET MORE ROBUST - UNCOMFORTABLE CALLING THIS A DIVER TODAY

BANDS

20MM .

SMALL, LIGHT, LOW PROFILE - LOTS OF OPTIONS.

MINE CAME WITH A LOVELY NATO - BEST I’VE OWNED

SOFT, SILKY,RIBBON LIKE

COLOURS

IN BLACK SUPER VERSATILE IN BLUE A LITTLE LESS SO

THE COLOURWAY AND FONTS A LITTLE TO PLAYFUL FOR THE MOST FORMAL OCCASIONS

YOU’D NEED A FAIR BIT OF PAVONEGGIARSI (ITALIAN FOR SWAGGER) TO PULL THIS VERSION OFF AS A DRESS WATCH IN A FORMAL SETTING.

LOOKS (TO YOU AND OTHER PEOPLE)

ONE OF THE VANGUARD OF A FLOOD OF VINTAGE INSPIRED DIVERS

IN A FAMILY WITH LONGINES LEGEND DIVER, ALPINA SEASTRONG HERITAGE,

MORE RECENTLY THE LONGINE SKINDIVER

SEE ITS REAL STYLE THERE

ITS SOLD AS A DIVER - USUALLY THINK OF MORE MODERN SKINDIVER LOOK

LIGHTER, SLIMMER, LESS IMPOSING

THIN LITTLE MID CASE/CLEAN CURVE/UNFUSSED EDGES

MID POLISH SIDES/SATIN BUT NOT BRUSHED UPPERS

LIKE SKIN DIVER VS SCUBA

SIMPLE MASK, SNORKLE AND FINS VS FULL SCUBA GEAR.

JUST A LIGHTNESS OF TOUCH

DIAL IS CLEARLY THE MOST INTERESTING PART OF THIS WATCH

A PLAYFULNESS THAT WORKS PERFECTLY WITH THE CASE DESIGN

DOMING OF THE CRYSTAL GIVES A CARNIVAL GLASS EFFECT

AND OBVIOUS HAVE TO FOCUS ON THOSE OH SO SIXTIES NUMERALS AT THE 12/3/6/9 - CAPTURES THAT SIXTIES SCI FI LOOK - CAN IMAGINE THEM MARKING THE LEVELS OF A KUBRICK SPACE SHIP

THE ALUMINIUM DIAL A PERFECT CHOICE - MAINTAINS THAT LIGHTNESS AND PERIOD BUT:

I DON'T THINK THE COLOURS WORK

THE DEAUVILLE/GREY AND FAUXTINA IS TO DIE FOR BUT

BLACK BEZEL OUT OF PLACE - JARS/INCONGROUS

WORKS PERFECTLY WITH THE BLACK DIAL

FRANKLY I THINK ORIS WENT A BIT CHEAP HERE - NEEDED TO COLOUR MATCH THE BEZEL WITH THE BABY BLUE

DATE. REALLY NICE.

IM A SUCKER FOR A DATE AT THE 6 OCLOCK

TINIEST INTRUSION INTO THE FAUXTINA SURROUND OF THE 6

SNUGGLED BETWEEN THE SWISS-MADE

NOT 100% COLOUR MATCHED BUT THE BLACK WORKS

ONLY CRITICISM IS ITS SMALL AND A LITTLE HARD TO READ BUT AESTHETICALLY A GREAT CHOICE

BATON HANDS NOTHING SPECIAL - SIMPLE BUT NICELY DONE

THE SILVERED EDGES WITH LUME FILLED CENTRE APPEARS TO GIVE THE HANDS THE 3D FEEL WHICH ADDS SUBSTANCE AND A FEELING OF QUALITY

COOL SECOND HAND - TINY DELICATE LITTLE LOLLIPOP

DELIGHTFUL LITTLE FLOATING DOT

SPEAKING OF LUME - NOT NORMALLY SOMETHING I CARE ABOUT BUT HERE IMPORTANT

GOT TO LOVE THE REAL LUME ARABIC SURROUNDS

THE OPPOSITE OF MY PROBLEM WITH THE SEIKO NEOSPORT

CASE BACK NOTHING SPECIAL

BUT UNLIKELY TO BE MUCH BEHIND THERE TO SEE

ON THE WRIST LOOKS.

OK ONLY- HIGHISH LUG PLACEMENT IMPACTS HERE

WATCH SITS REASONABLY FLAT BUT CERTAINLY DOESNT HUG THE WRIST

WOULD BE NEATER ON A NON NATO

FEEL.

CONTROLS - OK - TYPICAL SW200 FEEL

CROWN MIDDLING - 7MM, EASY TO GRIP, SOLID POP, POSITIONS CLEAN AND POSITIVE

EASY TO SELECT FIRST AND SECOND POSITIONS

BUTTERY SMOOTH WINDING

IN THE HAND. LIGHTNESS - CLEAN - EASY.

ON THE WRIST.

THIS ONE IS COMFORTABLE BUT NOT ESPECIALLY SO

ON THE NATO SITS A LITTLE HIGH BUT GETS AWAY WITH IT BECAUSE SO SLIM

ON ANOTHER BAND ITS BETTER

BUILD.

DIAL/BEZEL/CASE.

CASE FINE - SOME POLISH ON MID CASE SOME LIGHT BRUSHING ON LUG TOPS. CURVES ARE LONG AND LITHE SUIT THE BRIEF - BUT NOTHING SPECIAL - NO FLUTING/BEVELLING

DIAL. AGAIN THE DESIGN IS A SIMPLE PRINTING ON AN UNEXCEPTIONAL FEATURELESS SEMI GLOSS DIAL SURFACE SO NOT A LOT OF OPPORTUNITY FOR THE BUILDERS TO STRUT THEIR STUFF BUT WORKMANLIKE AND DOES THE JOB.

BEZEL. FINE BUT UNREMARKABLE. THE THEME OF LIGHTNESS AND DELICACY COMES THROUGH AGAIN - THE ALUMINIUM PERFECT AND ACTION FITS IT - EASY BUT POSITIVE - YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORK BUT IT WONT MOVE ON ITS OWN. TINY BIT OF BACK PLAY.

MOVEMENT. ITS AN SW200 - THESE HAVE A FINE REP.

EASE OF OWNERSHIP

MSRP - ORIGINALLY MSRP WAS 1600-1800 USD TODAY YOU’LL STILL HAVE TO PAY 1500-1600 USD IF YOU CAN FIND ONE

MAINTENANCE:

ITS AN UNTOUCHED SELITTA CAN IT BE EASIER?

FINDING ONE. THESE FIRST GENS ARE BECOMING LESS COMMON - YOU WILL FIND THEM BUT NOT A HUGE ARRAY OF OPTIONS

AUTHENTICITY. - VERY AUTHENTIC

TRUE TO HISTORY. YEP - A BRILLIANT RE-ISSUE OF A PREVIOUS DIVER - A QUICK LOOK REVEALS HOW TRUE TO THE ORIGINAL THEY’VE STAYED.

DESIGN (TRUE TO ITSELF). AND HERE IS THE NICE BIT - IN THE MAIN WHILE STAYING CLOSE TO THE ORIGINAL THE DESIGNERS OF THE RE-ISSUE HAVE PICKED UP TWO OF THE MOST IMPORTANT UPDATES - MOVED THE DATE TO TEH 6 OCLOCK, UPPED THE SIZE FROM 36 TO 40MM - JUST WISHED THEY’D UPDATED THE WATER RESISTANCE TO A MORE MODERN 200M

TRANSPARENCY/HONESTY. NO ISSUES HERE - I SUPPOSE ONE COULD POKE AT THE FAUXTINA, BUT REALLY FOR A RE-ISSUE AND THESE COLOURS IT WORKS. TRUTHFUL ABOUT INTERNALS - NO HIDING HERE

POSITIONAL POWER - HOW IT WILL BE SEEN BY OTHERS

(HIGH SCHOOL CROWD - JOCK/CHEERLEADER/GEEK/BADBOY/GREYMAN/PREPPY/HIPSTER/TRADIE ETC)

ORIS IS A LOVED BRAND

INDEPENDANCE AND LONG HISTORY OF BEING SO GIVES IT A PUNCH WELL ABOVE ITS NOMINAL WEIGHT DIVISION.

ORIS IN GENERAL IS THE POPULAR KID WE ALL GREW UP WITH THATS AT HOME IN PRETTY MUCH EVERY CROWD, FITS IN EVERYWHERE AND WHILE NEVER THE BEST AT ANYTHING IS ALWAYS A WELCOME MATE OR TEAM MEMBER.

LIKE A ROLEX WITH NONE OF THE STUFFINESS OR BAGGAGE.

AND THE DIVER 65 - PARTICULARLY IN THE DEAUVILLE - IS THE MOST FUN VERSION OF THAT KID. MAYBE NOT THE BEST LOOKING, HIS CLOTHES NEVER QUITE MATCH AND OCCASIONALLY JAR - BUT IF HES AT YOUR PARTY YOU KNOW YOU’LL BE HAVING A GOOD TIME

DESPITE BEING AN ENTRY LEVEL WATCH THIS ONE HAS POWER - YOU CAN ALWAYS COUNT ON AN APPRECIATIVE NOD FROM MOST WATCH GEEKS WITH THIS ON THE WRIST.

SO WHAT’S THE VERDICT - SWIPE RIGHT (GOOD) OR LEFT (BAD)

HARD RIGHT

THE WORD I KEEP COMING TO IS DELIGHTFUL

ITS FUN AND LIGHT AND PLAYFUL

NOT A BRILLIANT BUILD BUT THEN IT DOESNT HAVE TO BE

ONLY POINTS ID NOTE:

THIS FUN COMES AT A PRICE - OBJECTIVELY ITS NOT CHEAP - YES ITS A LITTLE LESS LONGINE LEGEND DIVER BUT ITS FAR MORE EXPENSIVE THAN THE ALPINA SEASTRONG HERITAGE AND LESS OF A WATCH THEN EITHER OF THOSE

AND - ESPECIALLY IN DEAUVILLE THIS WATCH ISNT THE MOST VERSITILE - DOES CASUAL BRILLIANTLY, DOES SPORT OK, STRUGGLES A BIT AT DRESS

SO HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT IF YOU’VE GOT A WATCH TO DO THE HEAVY LIFTING OF WORK OR DIVING AND WANT SOMETHING TO FILL THE GAP BETWEEN THESE TWO EXTREMES THIS IS FOR YOU.

What Makes a Fashion Watch

NOTE - THESE ARE MY SPEAKING NOTES FOR A VLOG IVE DONE - HERE

THEREFORE THESE ARE JUST BULLET POINTS I USED AS PROMPTS - THEY ARENT CAREFULLY CONSTRUCTED SENTANCES AND A LOT OF CONTENT IS MISSING - GO WATCH THE VIDEO FOR A COMPLETE STORY.

-----------------------------------------------------

FIRST - THANKS TO ONE OF MY COMMENTORS FOR SUGGESTING THIS TOPIC.

NOW IF YOU’VE STUMBLED ONTO THIS AND ARENT A WATCH NERD

PERHAPS YOU’RE A BIG ALPHA M FAN AND YOURE CURIOUS ABOUT ALL THE FUSS REGARDING HIS CLAIM MVMT WATCHES ARE BETTER THAN ROLEXES

BEING LABELLED A FASHION WATCH IS A VERY, VERY BAD THING - IN THE WATCH COMMUNITY MY FEELING IS THAT BEING LABELLED A ‘FASHION’ WATCH WAY WORSE THAN BEING A KNOCK-OFF ONLY SLIGHTLY BETTER THAN BEING A COUNTERFEIT.

NOW - IS THIS EVEN A THING:

It's a term used by purist and snob wannabes.

OFF THE BAT I HAVE SOME SYMPATHY. WITH THIS VIEW - IM WARY OF SNOBBERY IN THE WATCH COMMUNITY: IM INTO ODD LITTLE OFF BROADWAY BRANDS AND SO GET PRICKLY ABOUT THE WHOLE SHITTER THING…….

BUT

NO - I DON'T ACCEPT ITS A SNOBBERY THING - IF YOU ARE INTO THIS AS A HOBBY AND CARE ABOUT WATCHES.

WHY - BECAUSE - AND MORE DETAIL ON THIS LATTER - IF YOU CARE ABOUT WATCHES YOU PROBABLY SHOULDNT INDULGE BRANDS THAT DON'T.

AND FASHION WATCHES ARE - ULTIMATELY - THOSE WATCHES MADE BY BRANDS THAT DON'T GIVE A SHIT ABOUT THE WATCH.

THERE YOU GO - DONE, DEFINED, LET GO GRAB A COFFEE………….

ACTUALLY PROBABLY NOT THAT HELPFUL

NEED SOME GUIDELINES…TO IDENTIFY WHEN THE BRAND DOES CARE

SEARCH THE NET FOR 10 SECONDS AND YOU’LL FIND LOTS OF RULES

A WATCH PRODUCED BY A MANUFACTURER (OR RELEASED BY A BRAND, RATHER) THAT DOES NOT MAKE A MAJORITY OF THEIR SALES ON WATCHES EVERY YEAR.

OK - SO THATS CLEAR - SO OBVIOUSLY DW ISNT A FASHION WATCH THEN….OK, LETS TRY THAT AGAIN.

IF A BRAND PUTS SIGNIFICANT THOUGHT INTO THE DESIGN, AND PLACES A GENERIC MOVEMENT INTO THE PIECE, THEN BY THIS DEFINITION, IT WOULD BE A FASHION WATCH.

RIGHT - GOT IT - SO CARTIER/SINN/FORTIS/PARMAGINI ETC ARE FASHION WATCHES BUT FOSSIL IS COOL SINCE THEY’VE NOW BOUGHT A MOVEMENT MAKER - OK?…. NO THAT DOESNT FEEL QUITE RIGHT.

OK, COULD KEEP DOING THIS BUT I DON'T THINK ITS GOING TO WORK - DON'T THINK I CAN GOOGLE MY WAY OUT OF THIS.

LETS PICK A COUPLE OF WATCHES I RECKON TEST OUR BOUNDARIES A LITTLE BY BEING SIMILAR BUT DIFFERENT.

MVMT/DW/MOVADO/GUCCI/FOSSIL/VINCERO





ALSO - AND THIS MIGHT BE A CHEAT - IM STICKING WITH MENS/UNISEX WATCHES.

THE INHERENT SEXISM AND RESULTING HYPERFEMINITY OF TRAD WOMENS WATCHES FROM EVERY BRAND MAKES THIS KIND OF MEANINGLESS - BUT THATS A WHOLE OTHER VIDEO IM NOT SURE IM QUALIFIED TO GO DOWN - LOOKING TO SEE TWO KATS AT TENN AND TWO TACKLE THAT.

NOT - NONE OF THIS IS A SLAM DUNK - GUIDE TO A JUDGEMENT

DESIGN

CURIOUSLY IT BEGINS WITH DESIGN - GENERALLY GENERIC/ROUTINELY COPIES/OFTEN RESEMBLE (OR ARE) CATALOGUE DESIGNS




WHERE THERE IS SOME NEW DESIGN ITS ABOUT THE BRAND NOT THE WATCH







OR TOTALLY RIDICULOUS





MOVEMENTS

DEFINITELY NO HARD RULES HERE - YOU ARE LOOKING FOR TRENDS ACROSS THE BRAND

GENERALLY PREDOMINATELY CHEAP QUARTZ - THIS ISNT ABOUT BASHING QUARTZ - HAS A TIME AND PLACE - PROVIDES SOME FUNCTIONALITY MECH CANT AND CAN BE WELL USED.

IN A FASHION BRAND HOWEVER QUARTZ IS SIMPLY A CHEAP DEFAULT.


ANOTHER INTERESTING CHARACTERISTIC - WHEN THERE’S A MECHANICAL MOVEMENT A FASHION WATCH WONT WASTE AN OPPORTUNITY TO TELL YOU

MATERIALS

PERHAPS PARADOXICALLY RARELY IF EVER IN ACTUAL PRECIOUS METALS:

FESTIVAL OF PLATING AND MORE RECENTLY PVD

MARKETING

ALMOST NEVER TALK ABOUT THE WATCH - ITS ABOUT YOU!

WATCH DETAILS WILL USUALLY BE PRETTY SCARCE

ALMOST NOTHING THAT CONNECT THE WATCH TO ANYTHING OTHER THAN ITS LOOKS







NO HISTORY, NO ATTACHMENTS TO FOUNDERS, NO STORY


PRICE

USUALLY OVERLY EXPENSIVE FOR WHAT IT IS














SO LETS RUIN THROUGH THIS

DESIGN - COPIES/GENERIC/DELIBERATELY GROSS AND ATTENTION SEEKING

MOVEMENT - CHEAP OR PREDOMINATELY FOR A DISPLAY

MATERIALS - CHEAP - HEAVY EMPHASIS ON APPEARANCE AND FAUX

MARKETING - SCANT INFORMATION, DISCONNECTED FROM HISTORY, DISCONNECTED FROM THE CREATORS, WATCHES SEEM UNATTACHED TO ANYTHING OTHER THAN AN EPHEMERAL LOOK

PRICE - USUALLY FAR HIGHER THAN YOUD EXPECT GIVEN THE BASE.

NOT ALL ALL THE TIME BUT MOST MOST OF THE TIME.

ESSENTIALLY A LACK OF INTEGRITY - OR RETRUNING TO THE EXESTIALISM IVE DISCUSSED BEFORE - A LACK OF AUTHENTICITY

SOME ‘REAL’ WATCHES WILL HAVE SOME OF THESE TOO. HUBLOT/TAG/JACOB AND CO NOTE HOW THESE ARE ‘REAL’ BRANDS WITH DODGY FEELINGS

GOES TO SHOW - ITS NOT A BINARY ITS A SPECTRUM AND A JUDGEMENT CALL - DON'T LOOK FOR A SLAM DUNK, A SIMPLE RULE.

LOOK AT THE TOTALITY OF THE BRAND AT THE DESIGNS/MATERIALS/MARKETING/MOVEMENTS/PRICING AND ASK YOURSELF

DO I SEE INTEGRITY - DO I SEE AUTHENTICITY - IF IN THE MAIN THE ANSWER IS NO THEN YOU ARE LOOKING AT A FASHION WATCH.

NSOW Weekly News 14-21 July 2019

See the video here

MUSICAL CREDIT: SCOTT HOLMES: BREATHE NEW LIFE 2
from Free Music Archive

INTRO

THIS IS A LITTLE LATE - MY WEEK HAS BEEN A BIT CRAZY SO IVE SWAPPED A LONG AND SHORT VIDEO. I VERY MUCH DOUBT ANY ONE PLANS THEIR WEEK AROUND ME SO I RECKON IM SAFE. THIS IS NOT COMPREHENSIVE - JUST STUFF I FOUND INTERESTING AND THOUGHT WORTH SHARING. IF YOU ARE AS BIG A NERDS AS ME YOU MIGHT KNOW THIS ALREADY - AH SORRY I’LL BE ADDING MY OWN COMMENTARY ALONG THE WAY - AFTER ALL WHATS THE POINT OF HAVING A YOUTUBE CHANNEL IF YOU DON'T USE YOUR SOAPBOX. WATCHES MONOCHROME.

PANERAI RADIOMIR MIL INSPIRED GREEN DIALS MILITARY INSPIRATION - MATTE GREEN ON ONE HAND NOTHING SPECIAL - YET ANOTHER ITERATION SAMES CASE (48MM), HANDS, DIAL JUST MATT FINISH AND MATTE GREEN DIAL - COUPLOE OF VERSIONS AND SIZES BUT VERY VERY SWEET LOOKING BUT ALSO 10-12K USD? TOP END THE CERAMIC HODINKEE HODINKEE DID A GORGEOUS BLANPAIN 50 FATHOMS BATHYSCAFE VERSION COULD IT BE ANYTHING BUT - STUNNING BASE MATERIAL QUICKLY - BATHYSCAFE WAS CONSUMER VERSION OF THE ORIGINAL MIL 50 NICE TO LOOK AT BUT CANT BUY - THE WHOLE BATCH SOLD IN MINUTES SO WHAT YOU GONNA DO? 9.5K USD MONOCHROME GIRARD PERREGAUX 1966 BLUE MOON UNSURE HOW I FEEL ABOUT THIS REMINDED ON THE AP CODE 1159 MODERN, CLEAN, BEAUTIFULLY BUILT - BUT IS THAT ENUF? FOR 9K USDISH I SUSPECT THAT ITS NOT AT ITS BEST IN PHOTOS LIKE 1159 - PEOPLE THAT HANDLED ONE MORE POSITIVE THAN PEOPLE REVIEWING FROM IMAGES PROBABLY SIMILAR SO RESERVE JUDGEMENT WATCHES NEWS VACHERON CONSTANTIN PATRIMONY DAY DATE RETROGRADE THIS WATCH HAS BEEN AROUND FOR A WHILE BUT SERIOUS UPDATE DIAL COLOURS AND COMPLICATION DISPLAYS EASY TO LOVE - THAT BLUE IS PERFECT WITH THE GOLD THE DATE AND DAY DISPLAYS INTERESTING BUT CLEAN AND EASY AND CHECK OUT THAT MOVEMENT STILL 44K EURO - IT WOULD WANT TO BE PRETTY SPECIAL DEPLOYANT.COMhttps://deployant.com/review-tutima-patria-admiral-blue-ss/
NOT A NEW WATCH BUT A REVIEW OF THE TUTIMA PATRIA ADMIRAL LAST WEEK I SPOKE ABOUT TUTIMA NOT SIDES - DOWNSTAIR WORKERS AND UPSTAIRS GENTRY LAST WEEK WAS THE WORKERS FLIEGER GO TO DEPLOYENT AND CHECK OUT THEIR REVIEW OF THE PATRIA - YOU’LL SEE THE OTHER SIDE- NOTING STILL ONLY 4900 CHF BOLDR EXPEDITION FIELD WATCH THATS TRYING TO ACT COOL IN A DIVE WATCH STYLED CASE - SORT OF: SELLITTA SW200 MVMT 200M/SAPHIRRE/INTERESTING 3D PRINTED DIAL AND STEPPED DIAL/BEZEL MY EXPERIENCE WITH GLOBETROTTER REALLY POSITIVE NOW AVALABLE AT 499USD (GOING TO 599) - VERY GOOD PRICE COMPELLING OFFER IF YOU LIKE THE STYLING WATCH INDUSTRY HALF YEAR SWISS WATCH REPORTS AND ANALYSIS. THIS IS WORTHY OF A FULL EPISODE AND I MIGHT DO THAT IN A FEW WEEKS OVERALL SWISS WATCH SALES UP 1.4% - BUT HELD BACK BY A SHOCKING JUNE RESULT BIG FALLS IN THE ENTRY LEVEL - SEE IN BOTH PRICE AND MATERIALS HONG KONG BIG FALL LINKED TO CIVIL UNREST BUT SOME TAKEAWAYS MONOCHROME: SWATCH HAS SOME ISSUES - SALES AND PROFITS DOWN - LOOKS LIKE LOW END HAMILTON/MIDO/TISSOT/SWATCH IN THE GUN ALSO A LITTLE NOTE ABOUT ACTION AGAINST GREY MARKETS PRODUCTION AND JUNK SALES DOWN RICHEMONT SEEMS TO HAVE NAILED IT - SOLID/OCCASIONALLY DOUBLE DIGIT GROWTH NOT AS AFFECTED BY THE DOWNTURN IN ENTRY LEVEL SALES WATCH MEDIA KEEPING WITH INDUSTRY WATCHING NEWS. BLOG TO WATCH ARTICLE - FHH ANALYSIS INTERESTING IDEA REALLY BUILDING ON FHH FIGURES - LESS FOCUS ON “VALUE” AT THE ENTRY LEVEL AND MORE ON QUALITY - MORE CONFIDENCES IN THE MARKET - ADVENT ON IN-HOUSE MOVEMENTS, MORE INTERESTING MATERIALS ETC NOT SURE I ENTIRELY AGREE - IE I DON'T THINK THATS WRONG RATHER NOT COMPLETE. HODINKEE YOU MIGHT NOT BELIEVE THIS BUT IT IS IN FACT LEGAL TO SEND WATCHES OTHER THAN SPEEDYS INTO SPACE. JACK FORSTER HAS A REALLY COOL ARTICLE RUNNING THROUGH ALL OF THEM. TIME AND TIDE 5 INSTAGRAM CLICHES THAT NEED TO DIE: (CURIOUSLY I AGREE WITH I DON'T SEE THE FIRST THREE MUCH - THEY ARE INSTANT UNFOLLOWS FOR ME) NO 4 HAS BECOME KINDA BORING AND I KINDA AGREE WITH NUMBER 5 - BUT NOT ALWAYS: CAR INTERIOR AND WATCH FISTFUL OF WATCHES OBNOXIOUS TRAVEL SHOT THE BOOB/BABE SHOT YES, YOU HAVE NICE WATCHES, YOU’RE ALSO A DICK
WRIST ROLL - LESS SURE ON THAT ONE THE ONGOING REHAB OF SERIOUS QUARTZ
WORN AND WOUND BIG ARTICLE ON TWO GRAND SEIKOS WITH THE 9F DOUBLE DOWN ON THE CONTINUING LOVE AFFAIR WITH GS FRATELLO ON THE LONGINES CONQUEST VHP GMT CLOCKBAIT

NAILING IT WITH THREE GREAT VIDEOS THIS WEEK SEIKO ALPINIST REVIEW - EXCELLENT MORE IF WATCHES WERE CARS - VERY FUNNY ALBEIT VERY ENGLISH I HADNT HEARD OF MANY OF THE CARS THEY REFERRED TO. TUDOR GMT REVIEW - AGREE ONE OF THE BEST ROLEX KNOCK-OFFS GOING AROUND KEY IS THESE GUYS BRING A REALLY FUN PODCAST KIND OF VIBE AND GREAT ANTIDOTE TO PEOPLE LIKE ME WITH A TENDENCY TO TAKE THIS ALL A BIT SERIOUSLY. HOROLOGY HOUSE. I DO SOME PHOTOGRAPHY MYSELF BUT TRAVEL/STREET AVAILABLE LIGHT - FANCY WAY OF SAYING IM LAZY AND SHIT AT THE TECHNICAL STUFF LIKE LIGHTING. MARK OVER AT HOROLOGY HOUSE IS THE BEST WATCH IMAGERY GUY ON YOUTUBE RIGHT NOW AND IM AWE OF HIS SHOTS. BUT NOT JUST GRATUITOUS BEAUTY SHOTS - IVE FOUND AS MUCH AS I HAVE TO WORK THESE MACROS SHOW US STUFF ABOUT OUR WATCHES WE DIDN'T KNOW ABOUT THE REAL LEVELS OF CARE GIVEN. AND MARKS STUFF HERE IS BRILLIANT. THE IMAGES OF ‘DISCOLOURATION’ MAYBE SURFACE CORROSION, MAYBE LEACHING OF LUBRICANT? WAS FASCINATING AND REALLY REVEALING. IN PODCASTS BARK AND JACK NEW PODCAST WITH PAUL THORPE PAUL REALLY INTERESTING GUY - EX DEALER AND SO AS YOU’D IMAGINE VERY BUSINESS FOCUSSED BUT HE’S SELF AWARE ENOUGH TO KNOW IT AND IS OPEN ABOUT IT. SO I NEVER SAW HIS PREVIOUS STUFF, WATCHED A FEW MORE NOW, REALLY RECOMMEND YOU CHECK HIM OUT. NOW THIS LAST ONE IS CHEATING A BIT TENN AND TWO KATLAN AND KAT FROM TENESSEE. APART FROM THE GRAM I DON'T KNOW KAT MUCH BUT SHE GOT SOME NICE WATCHES. IVE HEARD KATLEN ON SCOTTISH WATCHES MORE THAN A FEW TIMES AND A) SHE KNOWS WATCHES AND B)SHES FUNNY SO DEFINITELY WORTH A LISTEN.

NSOW 34-19. VINTAGE WATCH REVIEW - 50'S ALPINA 4 PUBLISHED

NOTE.  These are my notes used as the basis of a VLOG post NSOW 34-19.

These are often just bullet points and dont read like a piece of correct prose.

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ALPINA 4 VINTAGE WATCH REVIEW

BASICS

BRAND. ALPINA

CREATED IN 1883, A UNION OF A NUMBER OF MANUFACTURES DISTRIBUTED ACROSS GERMANY/SWITZERLAND/FRANCE. FOCUSSED ON QUALITY - ESPECIALLY ROBUSTNESS.

IN 1938 ALPINA INTRODUCED THE ‘ALPINA 4’. THE NUMBER ‘4’ ALLUDED TO THE FOUR ESSENTIAL QUALITIES OF A SPORTS WATCH: ANTIMAGNETIC, WATER-RESISTANT, ANTI-SHOCK AND STAINLESS STEEL (CASE). ALPINA CLAIM THIS EFFECTIVELY CREATED THE MODERN SPORTS WATCH AND THERE’S SOME SUBSTANCE TO THAT CLAIM

MODEL. 4

REFERENCE. NO IDEA

YEAR. PROBABLY early 50S

STYLE/SHAPE. MID CENTURY DRESS/SPORTS, FAIRLY GENERIC SHAPES BUT NICE A CLEAN APPLIED INDICIES AND ARABICS AT 12,3,9 - SMALL SECONDS AT THE 6. SIMPLE BUT REALLY SHARP SWORD HANDS

SIZES - WEARABILITY.

34mm X 42mm X 10.2mm

2 YRS AGO WOULD BE TOO SMALL - TODAY A MORE REALISTIC OPTION

MATERIALS

STAINLESS STEEL CASE AND PLEXIGLASS CRYSTAL

MOVEMENT

IN HOUSE ALPINA 592 MANUAL WIND - SOLID AND SERVICEABLE STILL

MANDATORY WATCH STUFF

USABILITY

FUNCTIONS - TIME

LEGIBILITY – NOT BAD ALL THINGS CONSIDERED - DOMING MAKES OFF AXIS READING HARDER BUT PAY OFF ELSEWHERE

CONTROLS - OUTSTANDING

FOR A 60+ YR WATCH AMAZING.

CROWN POSITIVE, CLEAN, NICE WIND

ROBUSTNESS (APPARENTLY)

SHOCK RESISTANCE - OK

ANTI MAGNETISM - OK

WATER RESISTANCE – IT SAYS WATER RESISTANT WHAT DOES THAT MEAN? dates pre 70

MATERIAL STRENGTH – STEEL – ITS MADE IT THIS FAR.

PLUS LITTLE THINGS LIKE DUST COVER

BUT STILL BE CAREFUL!

ACCURACY - OK.

WHAT’S REALLY IMPORTANT – HOW COOL IS IT?

LOOKS.

VERY NICE BUT NOT GREAT, CASE DESIGN PRETTY GENERIC, FINISHING SIMPLE, LITTLE COMPLEXITY BUT ITS OLD – THAT’S EVERY WATCH OF THIS AGE.

ALSO REMEMBER THIS IS A TOOL WATCH - OF ITS DAY - PERHAPS ONE OF THE FIRST - THIS WATCH IS SATISFYING NOT FLASHY - AUTHENTIC

NOTE DRILLED LUGS

CASE A LITTLE MARKED BUT NO BIGGIE - DIAL PATINA VERY COOL

SIMPLE ARABICS , APPLIED INDICES, PRETTY HEAVY DOMING.

OK - IM GOING TO BE SUPER CONTROVERSIAL HERE - BUT BASICALLY THE ROLEX EXPLORER OF 53 COULD BE CONSIDERED A HOMAGE TO THIS WATCH

MESSAGES -

BEING ON THE SMALL SIDE A DISCRETE LITTLE BUGGER - MOST WON'T NOTICE :

EVEN UP CLOSE PRETTY ANONYMOUS TO PEOPLE NOT IN THE KNOW - WHICH IS ALMOST NOBODY

SO A REAL SLEEPER - IF THAT’S WHAT YOU WANT

BUT YOU’LL KNOW

THE PRICE OF ADMISSION

CHRONO24 – 300-600 ISH USD

INHOUSE, SWISS MVMT/GENUINE HOROLOGICAL SIGNIFICANCE//UNCOMMON – FRANKLY I RECKON ITS AMAZEBALLS

MAINTENANCE - THE MOVEMENT IS OLD AND IN HOUSE BUT FAMOUSLY ROBUST AND INTERNET RESEARCH APPEARS TO INDICATE STILL QUITE SERVICEABLE.

FINDING ONE. SURPRISINGLY STRAIGHTFORWARD BUT WILL NEED YOU TO RELY ON EBAY, PRIVATE SALES AND/OR EASTERN EUROPEAN SUPPLY CHAIN – PERSONALLY NEVER BEEN A PROBLEM.

SO WHAT’S THE VERDICT - SWIPE RIGHT (GOOD) OR LEFT (BAD)

HARD SWIPE RIGHT. BASICALLY A TYPICAL MID CENTURY DESIGN SO FUNDAMENTALLY ATTRACTIVE BUT SIMPLE AND UNDERSTATED. COULD EVEN BE CONSIDERED BORING BUT - BIG BUT - THIS IS A SERIOUS WATCH WITH SERIOUS HISTORY FOR EFFECTIVELY PEANUTS. ITS HISTORY, ITS BUILD, SET IT APART FROM THE CROWD AND ELEVATE IT.